Collecting Fluorescent Minerals in Greenland

Franklin New Jersey, USA – Most fluorescent collectors started out collecting Franklin minerals.  They are among the brightest, most varied, and most sought after fluorescent minerals known to the hobby.  One can only imagine what it was like 50 years ago to actually be able to search the active mine dumps and come home with a piece of rare Esperite, or even dream of finding a piece with a little margarosonite.  Today, collectors must be content with exploring endless piles of bright red fluorescent calcite and bright green willemite – many worn from endless handling by decades of determined collectors.

Ilimaussaq Complex, South Greenland - In the past three years a new locality has come to light (pun intended).  The Ilimaussaq complex in Southern Greenland has been a famous center for geological exploration for hundreds of years.  As early as 1806 mineralogists were exploring the unique geology of the complex; since then over two hundred minerals have been identified within the intrusion.  Many are only known from a few areas in the world, and at least ten are unique to Ilimaussaq.  The complex is also the type locale for dozens of species.  But perhaps the most amazing fact (to a fluorescent collector) is that until three years ago, Greenland’s only claim to fame in the “glowhound” world was Tugtupite! 

Today there are over 15 different fluorescent minerals identified, and scores waiting to be identified.  The brightness of these pieces, along with many beautiful multi-color combinations, rivals those from Franklin.  Many pieces exhibit dramatic phosphorescence or a remarkable tenebrescense (color change) found in few other minerals.   No literature exists describing the fluorescence of the various minerals within the complex; few people have even brought a UV light to the area!  Yet these minerals simply lie there – waiting for the venturous collector to shine a light on them and find the hobby’s next rarity!  Fluorescent collecting in Greenland must be akin to collecting in Franklin in the old days; exciting, productive, and simply fascinating.

But – Greenland isn’t just a matter of hopping on I-95 and driving a couple of hours.

Greenland is located just north of the location where the Titanic sank.  Primarily an island covered in ice (the world’s largest island – even if it is mostly ice), the coastline actually has strips of green in the summer months (Erik the Red named it Greenland after he was booted out of Iceland – the ultimate deception people say, just to make others want to move with him!). Southern Greenland is “warmed” by the Gulf Stream and in the short summer months (June to September) averages in the 50’s to 60’s.  But even during these “warm spells” one is amazed at the majestic icebergs floating in all the harbors and fjords, the glaciers, and the lingering snow covering that elusive piece of tugtupite.

Greenland was very much a part of Denmark until 1979 when a “Home Rule” Government was established, insuring that the culture and Greenland way of life would not be lost.  Denmark still plays a major role in Greenland’s government, but the Greenlandic people control their destiny.  They are a proud, self-sufficient people.  Living off the land, they are great hunters and fisherman, and very proud of their natural resources.  Greenland is one of the few undeveloped natural wonders left on earth one can visit and still experience nature’s beauty and solitude at her finest – without a single worry about terrorism, violence, or crime.

Getting to Greenland can be interesting.  In 2003 Air Iceland opened a route to Southern Greenland making things a little easier – they fly twice a week (weather permitting) to Narsarsuaq (the only major airport in South Greenland).  The only other way to get there is to fly all the way to Copenhagen (Denmark) and then fly back to Greenland (not a lot of fun). If the Greenland weather interferes flights might be diverted to Stromfjord Airbase in northern Greenland (or just sit in Reykjavik until it clears up).  This is the first lesson in travel to Greenland – the weather rules. Thankfully, the summer months are usually quite cooperative.

Once in country the adventure begins.  There are no roads connecting the cities (there really aren’t any cities either).  The larger settlements have roads in town, mostly so people can drive down to their boats – the main mode of travel.  Flying into Narsarsuaq (a bustling airport town of 200 people) one can travel by ferry or private boat to Narsaq; home for the next week while exploring the Ilimaussaq Complex.  After this trip, one has an appreciation for the passengers on the Titanic as they traversed the ice filled waters of the North Atlantic.

Narsaq is a small village located about 16km outside the Ilimaussaq Complex.  The people are used to geologists traveling there from all over the world.  Several excellent guesthouses are available – one even has a restaurant!  All have cooking facilities and you can cook up your own meals.  There are two grocery stores in town stocked with the best shrimp, salmon, trout, lamb, whale, and seal around – all within easy walking distance.  The locals speak Danish and Greenlandic and have a (reluctant) grasp of English. But most of all, they are friendly and quick to help in anyway they can.

Travel to/from the various areas within the Ilimaussaq complex is by boat or 4-wheel drive truck.  An old road leads to the famous Kvanefjeld area (Tugtupite mines) and the Tasaq slopes.  Other parts of the complex are accessible only by boat.  Many of the locals will ferry people to various areas in the summer months for a reasonable fee.

The area is a large sprawling complex spanning several fjords and mountains.  A road (or boat) only gets you to the base of the collecting areas.  One must be prepared to hike up old river beds, climb slopes, and even do some relatively rugged climbing to get to some of the more productive areas.  The maximum elevation is around 700 meters and usually easy to traverse.  There are two major impediments to climbing: Rocks are everywhere!  Everything glows!  – it simply takes too long to get to the top because the climbers get lost collecting on the way up!

What to Bring?

A successful expedition to Greenland will require careful planning and packing.  While many items are available locally, one should prepare before arrival in the country to maximize collecting time and minimize problems. 

Clothing – Greenland is part of the arctic.  During the summer months it can get into the 30’s at night, and averages in the 50’s to 60’s during the day.  Layers are most important.

UV Equipment – Your UV light is the most important part of your equipment.  It should be rugged enough to stand days of use in the mountains.  Spare fuses, a  spare lamp, protection for the filter glass (In case you fall while carrying the light), and extra batteries are wise accessories. 

Rock Tools – A cracking hammer will be invaluable (6 or 8 lbs) and a chisel or two. Geologist hammers (the ones with a chisel on one end and a hammer on the other) don’t fare too well on the massive rocks you’ll find.

Portable Darkroom – Darkness is at a premium in Greenland.  It is best to come prepared to hunt for glowrocks in the daytime. A black BBQ grill cover works well, as does opaque landscaping plastic (bring extra – it gets poked full of holes easily).

Hiking Gear – Sturdy boots, leather gloves, and a strong knapsack made for carrying large loads. A Fly-Fishing vest makes a neat carryall for those little items that pile up in your pockets (and small delicate crystal specimens).

Sundries – Medicines, special foods, film, battery chargers (remember European style  220V adaptors).

Electronics – FRS/GMRS radios (handheld walkie-talkies) help you keep in touch with fellow explorers.  A GPS is helpful for marking spots.

The Ilimaussaq Complex

The Ilimaussaq Complex in Southwestern Greenland is an 8x17km intrusion spanning two fjords - Kangerluarsuk fjord and Tunulliarfik fjord. Located near the city of Narsaq, access to certain parts of the complex (Kvanefjeld and Tasaq) can be made by foot, while other areas (Kangerluarsuk and Tunulliarfik) requires travel by boat. It is without a doubt the most mineral-rich area in Greenland.  Due to the rapid weathering of the friable (brittle and easily crumbled) syenites most of the mountains have no vegetation (no soil).  The gray rockscape contrasts sharply with the deep blue fjords and gleaming white icebergs.

The 1.2 million year old intrusion consists of three different rock suites. Nepheline-bearing augite syenite first formed a shell along the sides and the roof, next a quartz bearing alkali granite and alkali syenite formed two thin sheets near the top, and finally the biggest part and center of the intrusion was formed by a layered series of under-saturated syenites. These three main rock suites represent three pulses of different kinds of magmas. The rocks close to the roof are the oldest. The most common rocks in these areas are a sodalite-nepheline syenite called naujaite, an arfvedsonite-aegirine bearing nepheline syenite called lujavrite, and a eudialyte-bearing nepheline syenite called kakortokite.

Ilimaussaq has the widest variety of minerals in Greenland - more than 200 so far, half of them silicates. The silica content of these minerals are much higher than elsewhere in the world. Numerous pegmatites and hydrothermal veins, streaks and patches are found all over the intrusion, but are most common in the areas of Kangerluarsuk and Kvanefjeld.

There are several key localities within the complex offering the collector access to many rare and unusual minerals.  Some of these areas are small intrusions perhaps only meters wide. Many minerals in these areas are found nowhere else in the world.

Kvanefjeld

The Ilimaussaq Complex is an 8km by 17km oval running from the northwest to the southeast.  Kvanefjeld Mountain (700m) is located at the NW corner of the complex. An old road is used to drive the 15km from Narsaq to the valley between Kvanefjeld and the Tasaq Slopes.  This road gradually climbs 300 meters to the drop-off point.  It is then a nice hike up to the 500 meter level via an old mine access road to the (abandoned) uranium mine.  From this point a “trail” leads to the summit of Kvanefjeld, “rock climbing” the last 200 meters.  The difficulty is average and not particularly difficult if you are in reasonable shape.  The vertical slope is gradual, and mainly consists of following a well worn trail, while climbing over large pieces of sodalite and lujavrite.

Atop Kvanefjeld one is greeted with a wonderful view of the valley below, Narsaq in the distance, and the iceberg dotted fjords. It is easy to spend the entire day exploring the relatively flat areas at the top, and digging through the years of tailings that the locals have amassed while searching for gem red tugtupite. The main tugtupite mining area is located a short walk to the east and is littered with snow-white pieces of albite and analcime.  Most pieces glow bright red under SW UV.  Occasionally one will meet a local miner pounding away at a white vein in an effort to pry loose some bright red “tutupit”.

Unlike fluorescent collecting in other parts of the world, in Greenland you quickly learn that you have to bring your own “darkness”.  Waiting for nighttime is not an option.  During the summer months it doesn’t get dark until 10:30, and only stays dark for a couple of hours (sunrise – 2am).  This is where ingenuity counts; a BBQ grill cover works great (as long as it’s solidly opaque), as does a tarp of landscaping fabric.  Basically, anything that you can crawl under with a UV light, seal out all external light, and examine potential specimens is needed. A great strategy is to explore the area during the daytime for likely spots, check out samples under the portable “darkroom” and mark good spots for later viewing during the premium dark hours. Atop Kvanefjeld, any white rock is a likely candidate – odds are that it will glow red with tugtupite, green with chkalovite, and possibly yellow with Sorensenite (if you’re lucky).  The locals are only interested in the gem red variety of tugtupite, so they ignore (and don’t even realize in most cases) the fluorescent material.

After a very full day of collecting on Kvanefjeld it’s time to hike back down.  This is where you learn why tugtupite costs so much.  During the climb up 10 kilos of hammers, chisels, UV lights, batteries, etc. probably got pretty heavy by the time you reached the summit.  Now add the 15 kilos of rocks you collected and head back down.  At least it’s all downhill (you say)!  When you get to the bottom and remove your backpack – it may be the greatest feeling you’ve ever felt.  Those rocks are heavy!

 Tasaq Slopes

A valley separates Kvanefjeld and the Tasaq Slopes.  A glacial stream runs through the valley and there is only one place to cross – a small footbridge in the middle of the complex.  The Tasaq Slopes are expansive, running the entire width of the complex.  Almost anywhere is a great area to hunt. Towards the bottom of the slopes there are large boulders that have eroded from the cliffs above.  Climbing up, pockets of sodalite, white veins of albite and analcime, and outcroppings of a myriad of other minerals can be observed. The goal is to find veins within the lujavrite rocks containing fluorescent minerals like sodalite, ussingite, tugtupite, polylithionite, and others.  One quickly learns that the outward appearance of weathered rock does not quickly reveal what is inside.  For example, sodalite often weathers to a dirty white, but when cracked open the true beauty is revealed.  One important note of interest: almost every rock cracked open will initially show a deep purple color – which quickly fades.  While similar to tenebrescense, this is a “one-shot” occurrence usually.  It never happens again (unless the mineral happens to be a tenebrescent sodalite or tugtupite).  But it could be a good indicator of fluorescence.

The most productive areas on the slopes can be found in the upper levels (500m).  Veins of sodalite, tugtupite and ussingite are quite easily found. Polylithionite is found in vugs and cavities, and other rare minerals are found “where you find ‘em”.  Mother nature is quite helpful in mining these minerals for the collector.  Over the winter rain, ice, and wind very actively expose fresh new material. Boulders, breaking away from the cliffs, roll towards the bottom and can result in some fantastic finds.  There are three areas of interest on the Tasaq Slopes: the eastern slopes, middle slopes, and western slopes.  Only the western slopes have been extensively surveyed (by H. Sorensen in the mid 60’s).  This area is noted for the heavy concentrations of beryllium, and produces some fantastic specimens.  The middle slopes and eastern slopes both produce great examples of sodalite and tugtupite, along with a myriad of unidentified species.  It would be easy to spend the entire trip only on the slopes.

The adventurous should consider camping atop the areas on the Tasaq Slopes.  The views are spectacular and the area’s surprises are endless.  It’s quite easy to pitch a tent and spend the night prospecting promsing veins and outcroppings.  The next day the veins showing the most promise can be worked by hand to pull out some fantastic specimens.  Water is plentiful (the reservoir for Narsaq is located at the very top of the slopes).  One note of caution: great care should be exercised when night prospecting.  Even though it doesn’t get dark for very long when it is dark, it is very easy to get lost, stumble or fall.  Stick close to your campsite and always go with a buddy. Bring some fluorescent tape to mark your trail and your finds for later on.

Tunulliarfik

The Tunulliarfik Fjord cuts right through the middle of the Ilimaussaq Complex.  Access to the best collecting spots here is only by boat.  Traveling from Narsaq the sights are wondrous; the deep blue water of the fjords broken by massive white and blue icebergs contrasts remarkable to the rocky cliffs and sparse vegetation on either side of the fjord. Upon approaching the transition zone into the complex the appearance of the land changes abruptly.  There is almost a complete absence of vegetation due to the rapid weathering of the friable syenites – only gray rocks with an occasional white vein high above.  Boulders lie at the water’s edge and landslide areas offer up exciting areas to prospect.

On the northern side of the fjord are several “dry” river beds (resulting from snow melt over the winters) which offer a convenient avenue to attack the cliffs high above.  This area is perhaps the most demanding; one must climb from sea level to the 500m level at a relatively steep incline.  But the rewards are many for those that make the climb.  Gem quality ussingite, massive veins of sodalite, and brilliant assortments of multi-color tugtupite specimens can all be found here.

At the water’s edge there are also many spots to occupy a collector for days.  Tugtup Agtakorfia is a small area right on the water and is the type locality for tugtupite – discovered in 19xx by Sorensen.  The original vein has been worked over quite heavily but there is an area which has been ignored until this summer (2003) because it just looked like a white albite.  But put it under a UV light and amazing things happen!

At the end of the Tunulliarfik Fjord is a peninsula offering excellent collecting opportunities.  Huge aegirine crystals and massive specimens of eudialyte abound. Sodalite is quite common in this area; determined collectors can easily find large, brilliant, and gemmy specimens. In this area (and other relatively flat areas) the trick is to find large boulders which have fallen from the cliffs above, or to search for frost heaves where mother nature has worked the rocks out of the ground – even broken some open.  As in other areas most rocks must be split open to reveal the minerals inside as the weathering on the surface does a great job of disguising the contents.  Night collecting is superb in this area, and there are many places to pitch a tent.  Bring along a fishing pole and catch a couple of tasty salmon for dinner right from the fjord.

Kangerluarsuk

The Kangerluarsuk Fjord forms the southeast boundary of the Ilimaussaq Complex.  Like Tunulliarfik, the fjord cuts right through the complex.  Steep cliffs rise from each side of the fjord. A large, relatively flat, rock strewn area is located at the end of the fjord and is one of the three most productive areas in the complex.  Significant exploration in the ‘60s revealed large deposits of beryllium, and finds of tugtupite and other rare minerals.  Some of the nicest features of this area are several beautiful areas to camp, driftwood to build a fire, a couple of cool rapidly flowing streams, and a never-ending supply of fluorescent minerals.  The fluorescent collector would not be wrong to spend several nights here….

Several major fluorescent finds have been made in this area.  In the summer of 2001 a large boulder of gem quality green sodalite was found simply laying in the rock field.  Upon splitting open a few pieces, a deep purple coloration appeared and slowly faded in the sunlight. Upon exposure to ultraviolet light, this deep purple color returns and the process can be repeated indefinitely. 

Polylithionite specimens from Kangerluarsuk are exceptionally well formed, large and bright.  Most are found higher in the cliffs surrounding the flat area – but most certainly worth the trip.  Polylithionite grows as veins within other minerals (most often ussingite and tugtupite) and in mica’s typical habit as plates atop the lujavrites and other rocks in the complex.

There are reports from material written in the 60’s of a trail of large white boulders running from the base of the cliffs to the water’s edge; the result of a vein of albite/tugtupite from which the surrounding syenites had eroded away.  These boulders have since disappeared, but each winter the water and ice seem to “dig up” additional specimens of white material which, when put under UV, rate among the prettiest minerals of the complex.  Collecting in these frost heave spots is easy and fun. It’s simply a matter of finding a circle of rocks (frost heaves), throwing your tarp over the top of them and climbing under with a UV light.  The resulting finds could be the highlight of a trip.

Getting your Finds Home

After a week scouring the mountains it is a amazing how many rocks one can accumulate.  A nightly ritual is the “culling hour” – no matter how tired you seem to be, the desire to examine the day’s finds with fellow adventurers is overwhelming.  Take this opportunity to discard the 3 kilo rock that you thought was so neat at the top of Kvanefjeld but now looks pitiful against the finds from Tasaq (even if you did CARRY IT ALL THE WAY DOWN THAT *#@$* MOUNTAIN!).   Trading with your collecting partners can be rewarding also. They may have found material you didn’t find, and vice-versa.  In any case, it is important to pick and choose the best specimens, as there is a limit to how much you can carry home with you.

International flights limit your luggage to a total of 20 kilos per person.  While they are somewhat flexible with this, grossly overweight baggage will be charged for accordingly.  Additionally, Greenland has recently adopted some strict laws regarding the export of minerals.  Tourists are allowed only a select sampling to be carried in their luggage without an export license (MinerShop, in conjunction with Jewelstones of Greenland provides an export license for those who attend their Geo-Adventure tours).

Specimens should be wrapped in bubble wrap and carefully packed in your checked luggage. Hand carried specimens should be limited to only the most delicate (and lightest).  Security at various airports has been known to cast a skeptical eye on rocks as weapons (as they were back in the stone ages).

 Greenland is a land of spectacular beauty and majestic landscapes.  It is not for the timid but is probably one of the last unspoiled collecting areas where an average collector can expect to find specimens often only seen in museums.  Perhaps the biggest challenge will be identifying the finds that have been made and will be made by future visitors. Ever dream of naming a rock?